mardi 17 novembre 2015

Shower gels: toxic and misleading?


Julien Kaibeck on France5?  It moves to the bathrooms!  ;-)
Julien Kaibeck on France5? It moves to the bathrooms! ;-)
You have certainly heard of the recent documentary broadcast on France 5 "Shower gel: Sensitive refrain" Liza Fanjeaux. A real buzz!
As an intervener in the report that caused a stir on the web since last Sunday, I thought it would be good to address the thorny issue all shower gels, and give you some tips that appear alas not in the documentary ...
Then you come with me in the shower?

1) Sunday Doc or Doc Shock?

I was contacted by the journalist Liza Fanjeaux months ago so I knew this story denouncing certain marketing abuses shower gels was going to be released in April. As you know, I also denounced in the past through some conventional cosmetic, especially with my funny video called "tribunal of beauty" (click to review how I deciphers the labels or Estee Lauder Yves Rocher to discover pollutants ingredients).
Julien in the review of shower gels France 5
Julien in the review of shower gels France 5
I had no idea, however, that the report would have such an impact on the social networks, it would really "dependent" against conventional shower gels and more against those who claim to be natural without, like those of Lush we see in the story (click  here or here  to review the report from any country on Dailymotion, otherwise visit the site Pluzz  France Télévisions from France only).
I do not intend here to criticize the report, I find the whole damn relatively well despite a conclusion which in my opinion is not one, about the benefits of soap. I prefer to give my own opinion on shower gels we are currently selling, and advice for a consumption more in line with the movement Slow Cosmetics. That's what I tried to do elsewhere in the report, but not bad elements were cut, which is conventional in a TV editing alas ...

2) My opinion on conventional shower gels

As I say in the documentary, I find conventional shower gels simply shameful.
Yes, it is shameful that the products sold in mass in 2014 may mislead us to this point, and to pass for what they are not.Attention worry, all shower gels are all good relatively mild detergents, and they are not immediately dangerous for the health.When I say they are misleading, it is mostly at the messages they convey it happens ...
I classify shower gels (and by extension shampoos or care) into two categories:

a) natural or faux kings of Greenwashing:

These then shower gels, and shampoos that go with it, are presented to us as natural as they contain a small part of natural ingredients, drowned in a sea of synthetic or chemically produced ingredients. 
Who wants to wash with a product containing polyethylene glycol (PEG)? Who wants to breathe 100% synthetic fragrance?Who wants to know that if soft foam produced by a shower gel comes from a long term irritant ingredient such as sodium laureth sulfate? No one. And that is why the following brands prefer to evoke the dream of naturalness rather than the detail of their components ... 
I remember here that a few brands, true symbols of this very large segment of natural true. Why cite these brands? Because they all contain at least one synthetic ingredients in their formulas, and often high on the list INCI (click Kézako know, and I remind you that the INCI list is mandatory on the package and reads in descending order), and because their marketing speak has nothing to do with their disappointing formulations.
> In supermarkets: Le Petit Marseillais / DOP / Nectar of Nature (new products 'nature' at Carrefour) / Ultra Soft / Tahiti / Palmolive / Fa ...
> In own stores: L'Occitane / Yves Rocher / Lush
> Pharmacies: Nuxe classic (not the range BIO beauty by Nuxe that very well) / Caudalie (though their formulas are becoming cleaner) / (special mention for hair with Phyto and Furterer)
> In perfumeries: Biotherm / Clarins / Sisley / ... and in reality almost EVERYTHING you can find at Sephora, Marionnaud, Ici Paris XL, Douglas and company ... a distribution network that really has NOTHING to understand natural cosmetics.

b) False dermatos, or kings pretenses:

These shower then gels, shampoos and again the same brands that go with it, are presented to us as "care" cleansers, moisturizers and tutti cuanti. They say they are the result of advanced research in the field of care and cosmetology. They point to a patented active or simply a plant extract but formulated in a precise way. In reality, all this is true. they wash, they "hydrate" superficially sometimes ... 
The problem with them is the question of meaning. What is the meaning of these messages if in reality we know all shower gels as it is essentially a simple formula based on water (lots of water), thickeners, a or more surfactants often belonging to the family of ethoxylated materials (please read my book for understanding), synthetic fragrance and preservatives. The question also arises of sense when you consider that the product is rinsed here and will remain only a few minutes on the skin (lucky for us also ;-)). Finally, the question of meaning arises again when we think of "ways" that are used to obtain this or that "end". It does make sense to use a synthetic product and also converted to wash my smooth skin? In my humble opinion, no! 
Another more serious problem is the presence in these so-called products "hi-tech" to criticism of conservative (see the report), synthetic fragrances only, BHT, EDTA, PPG and PEG's, sometimes phenoxyethanol. Careful, they do not contain all, but none of them has a formula that does not contain at least one synthetic or questionable ingredient ... Again I cite only a few generic examples to illustrate an entire segment of the sector:
> In stores: Nivea / Dove / Vendôme / Adidas / Mixa (not all, not organic) / Garnier ...
> In pharmacies: La Roche Posay / Ducray / Bioderma / Avene / A-derma ...
> In perfumeries: shower gels all major brands of perfume / Dior / Chanel ... the list is too long and it's depressing ...
NOTE: You will not return to see here quoted a brand you think like this or like that? Read the INCI list that appears on the packaging of your product, ingredient by ingredient if necessary, check the content of its formula thanks to sites like The Bottle (who gets hundreds of ingredients in connection with thousands of products), database Skin Deep EWG (beware it is in English but it's damn good), the site of Rita Stiens "The Truth on cosmetics", or books like my bestseller "Adopt Slow Cosmetics ", or those of Laurence Wittner or Rita Stiens.

3) What the documentary did not say, and my tips for your shower-baths

I think that instead of finishing the charge by directing reporting to the real soap, which was not zero but far too short, documentary Liza Fanjeaux that sparked this article could spare a little more space for that truly natural shower gels exist and are everywhere in food shops, and secondly there is now good soft surgras soaps such as soaps hydrolyzed cold.
In the shower !
In the shower !
Some useful tips to me:
- You want a truly natural shower gel foam without you and fun?
Go organic really organic store or specialty shop. Choose certified organic brand from a recognized label (Ecocert, Cosmebio, Qualité France, Nature & Progrès, Ecogarantie Certisys, BDIH, that should be enough and you can momentarily forget the other labels if you are beginner). 
This brand has responded to a binding charter for its formulation, and therefore contains no synthetic ingredients, no polemics preservatives, petrochemical derivatives, no plastic or silicone materials. And there is something for all prices, not only Weleda presented in the report! 
The Cattier brands Coslys, Melvita, Logona, Lavera, Dermatherm, Urtekram, Dr.Hauschka, offer bath and shower products in all kinds of prices and formulations. 
It is the same for brands that carry the Slow Cosmetics Mention (not a label but an ecological quality guarantee) that I still encourage you to focus. The Sweet Angevines, Gaiia, Guayapi, Soul of water, or Saint Hilaire Fun'Ethic will advise you for a really slow toilet. Follow them!
You want a soap but good?
Opt for the cold and saponified soap surgras. Without discussing. Only a few brands sell, but they are very dynamic. You find some of them in the list of brands with the Slow Cosmetics mention, but there are also some good food stores and in some markets or on the net.
- You still want to eat in supermarkets?
It's your right. Then choose a shower gel organic if you find one (Ushuaia and offers organic Mixa but not over their entire range, Carrefour Agir offers organic and Weleda is found in supermarkets in Belgium too). If we all stop eating conventional in supermarkets, do not panic because in barely six months rays will offer you good. It takes good!😉
- You're lost and consumed Lush (e) following the story?
Evolve Lush still a little in the right direction. Do not choose home that truly natural products, there is little, and avoid their formulas containing PEG, or too conservative polemics of natural fragrances. In truth, you will not find a lot of remaining products, but there are a few (some scrubs for example).
- You want more slow?
You are right ! Making his shower gel is possible, as opting for washing the clay, the loofah, brush ... shower gel Recipes home in my book and in many other books and websites on the internet (either it are also not qu'aroma zone in life even though their revenues are very well ;-)).
- You find this article too long?
Well, that's good because I have to stop there for now. Remember to learn to read the INCI list using free widgets of 'assocation Slow Cosmetics (click), reading my books on cosmetics (click) or watching my videos "court" and others on my Youtube channel(click) ...
Also come in Nantes in May or June in Paris to meet me during a training of the College of Aromatherapy, there is space (click)!

Kisses and bubbles for you all! And do you still not too chickweed, we live in a beautiful world (yes, yes, I swear)

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