"Hmm ... You smell good! "Everyone likes to be told ...
But what is that good odor which proudly carries the glamor of a great brand logo? Unfortunately, there is no way to really know ...
In this article, some essential information is required ...
Especially as the holidays approach, we will still see the figures explode perfumeries ...
I also give you a nice recipe for home fragrance as a gift!
Perfume, as a cosmetic ingredient, is not subject to detail in the list of ingredients INCI (the list must be displayed on the packaging of your cosmetics). It is not known which comprises.
The perfume is exception that proves the rule in terms of INCI. It refers in the list of ingredients under the term "fragrance" or "parfum", without giving the components, except allergens in (linalool and company) who are mentioned end of the list.
However, a perfume often contains tens or hundreds of compounds (usually volatile).
However, a perfume often contains tens or hundreds of compounds (usually volatile).
Bad news, almost all major brands of perfumes are formulated with synthetic compounds, and they are not without controversy. What a shame for products that cost so much!
Do not worry, we can understand why it is not obvious to detail the compounds of perfume in the INCI list. Because perfume, "juice", is considered a trade secret, the result of know-how, a commercial establishment. This is understandable.
The concern is that the coup for perfumes, colognes, eau de parfum, etc., we can not know what the product contains if it is alcohol and the famous "perfume". The same goes for creams, gels and scented care. We will only read "parfum" or "fragrance" in the list. But there are other synthetic compounds in the fragrance that deserve our attention. So, better to learn a bit before jumping on a scent and say "I love"!
What's my perfume?
The base of incense Spray, colognes and eau de parfum is alcohol. The fragrance is solubilized are created through the nose, creator of the perfume.
Include some suspicions about perfumes as finished products. These remarks apply to all perfumes even the most expensive, except certified organic fragrances that have to comply with a precise and natural formulation charter.
- Phthalates:
This class of chemicals has been linked repeatedly to hormonal disturbance phenomena. Some see it as a factor that can affect the development and fertility, see cancers. Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is still used in many cosmetic products, including perfumes. Is mainly used to make alcohol in the perfume unfit for consumption (hic!).In 2010, a US campaign found in 12 perfumes on 17. Not very sexy, but we must recognize that the scientific community and the European Union do NOT consider that the DEP for this cosmetic use, poses any risk to human health. Phew! On the advice of the European Scientific Committee SCCP-we learn that the concentrations used are far removed from the toxic area. But ... there is a but ...
If each individual scent is "safe" and non-toxic, it does not speak against ever by the cocktail effect, which is to be exposed to several substances in various products every day and accumulate them. Although the risk is low, but the doubt is present.
Another question that I find important and unanswered is: why make use of noble materials in as little perfume that presents itself as luxurious?
- Allergens:
European regulations on cosmetic list fragrance ingredients considered allergens. If these molecules are present in a formula, for example, a perfume or essential oil, they should be included explicitly in the INCI list on the packaging. We find so often at the end of the list of names of allergens that are not ingredients per se, but many ingredients compounds.
Here is the list of allergenic fragrance substances whose presence must be indicated on the packaging of cosmetic products in Europe (so avoid if you are allergic to any of them):
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Amylcinnamyl Alcohol, Anise ou Anisyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Metylpropional, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol , Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool ou Linalol, Methyl 2-Octynoate, Evernia prunastri, Evernia furfuracea.
The problem is that we do not distinguish between synthetic and natural fragrance. Instead, it focuses mainly on essential oils and natural essences such as packed allergens.
Dermatologists will tell you: the cases of allergies are becoming more numerous. And they often accuse essential oils ...
In reality, synthetic and natural fragrances as much as each other, are very often the cause of allergic reactions.
The position of the defenders of natural cosmetics is that isolated synthetic aromatic molecules are more allergenic than the same natural aromatic molecules, not isolated. For example, tests have focused on linalool, a molecule contained in a lot of aromatic plants (lavender ...). These tests showed that linalool was a allergen but this allergen was tested as an isolated molecule, as found in the compositions of synthetic fragrances. But naturally, in essential oils such as this molecule is never isolated and is intimately linked to the presence of other aromatic molecules.
The essential oil of lavender for example, contains a lot of linalool, which does not preclude be considered one of the best essential oils tolerated. All this remains debatable, since both conventional natural cosmetics that can cause allergies.
BRIEF: If you identify a list INCI the word "fragrance" or "parfum", the product contains a fragrance (synthetic in most cases). More rarely, the scent of a product can be obtained from natural essences and, in this case, you will read "perfume", or only the botanical names of aromatic plants if the manufacturer did not want to keep secret . If you are allergic, avoid the allergen in question by analyzing the end of the list.
- Synthetic musks.
We talk very little but they are problematic substances. In 2009, we learn through Austrian students that high levels of synthetic musks in the blood may be linked to repeated use of perfumes. Oh: - / It identifies and tonalide galaxolide musks in blood. Later, a controversial study in the US by the Environmental Working Group found in the umbilical cord blood of newborns.
However, research suggests that synthetic musks can disrupt the hormonal system. Galaxolide tonalide and appear to bind and have an action and estrogen -like progestérone- like. However, this is scientifically controversial.
What is more against certain is that synthetic musks also have a negative impact on the environment because they are not readily biodegradable, they are everywhere!
Initially, the idea of replacing musks animals by synthetic musks is good, but the question I ask myself is whether we should not have to think just happen musks, to go towards other thoughts fragrances designed ... and more natural.
View greenpeace report on this: http://www.greenpeace.org/belgium/Global/belgium/report/2010/2/parfum-de-scandale-une-enqu.pdf
It is distressing to see that the shelves of perfumeries (all!) Are filled with purely synthetic fragrances. There is in these stores almost no cologne or perfume yet formulated from pure natural essences. It tells you about a new scent with bergamot, cedar, vanilla or iris? Alas ! All fragrances of the latest generation are obtained through synthetic chemistry. And we talk very little about the health status of women working in the perfume in the long term. Where is the luxury in that?
The link with nature is very tenuous. And if you add to that the scents are now competing in vials of originality, combining gilding bling and plastic tinted in the mass, you will easily understand that marketing has taken over. Nothing glamorous to eyes of theSlow Cosmetics ...
WHAT DO WE DO THEN ?
NOTICE OF SLOW COSMETICS FRAGRANCE on
Faced with perfume or scented product synthetically, be aware of it. We think: either use less fragrance and avoids overexposure, or attempts to find natural substitutes (diluted essential oils, floral waters and aromatic extracts of fruits or flowers that now easily found on the internet). Well chosen and low-dose, essential oils and natural essences do not cause more allergies than any synthetic fragrance.Spread the word !
Fortunately, there are also toilet waters and perfumes certified organic. These products meet a restrictive Charter and can not contain phthalates as mentioned, no synthetic musks nitro either. They are no more or less allergenic than others.
If you can not find your happiness in the trade, it is possible to manufacture a perfume with essential oils at home, but it's obviously very different in term holding. This is done using the 70 ° alcohol or vodka, a convenient base for natural alcoholic perfumes or deodorants. Choose a non fragrant vodka that you find in supermarkets. No need to spend a fortune. To disperse essential oils in alcohol, it also will need a little vegetable glycerin. You will find at the chemist or pharmacist to order at a very low price. They are also found on the websites.
What essential oils for a pleasant perfume?
A perfume house must be built as a classic fragrance. We always marries base notes, heart notes and top notes.
For the assay, always count between 80 and 100 drops of essential oil per 100 ml of perfume in total.
For example, for a perfume with delicate scents of citrus, is distributed in 90 ml of vodka, 30 drops of essential oil of cedar for the base note, 40 drops of essential oil of neroli for the heart note and 30 essence of grapefruit or lemon drops for the top note (see below essential oils with their proper use).
Once you understand this, you can marry up to 6 essential oils together. This is the maximum. Regardless of the distribution. We tend to use several essential oils for the top notes that we feel first, and not to exceed 2 or 3 essential oils to the base notes and heart together.
For a pleasant change, you can also use alcoholic fruit extracts or tinctures. These products are found in herbal stores or online.The fragrances of these aromatic extracts are more intensive than those of the essential oils. Vanilla, benzoin and coconut are among the most popular flavors. We will dose them as essential oils, drip.
Examples of essential oils suitable for the manufacture of home fragrances:
- Essential oils tailored to the funds of notes: the "wood" and "heavy" molecules. Examples: rosewood, wood Ho, black spruce, balsam fir, Atlas cedar, cypress, cistus ladanifère, ylang-ylang, cinnamon, juniper ... The tincture of benzoin and vanilla absolute but also ideal are not essential oils such.
- Essential oils tailored to heart notes: the "flowers" and "leaves". Examples: lavender, lavender, chamomile, geranium, lemongrass, palmarosa, cistus ladanifère, ylang-ylang, neroli, petit grain bitter orange, damask rose, rosemary, sage, lemon balm, spearmint, angelic or lemon verbena ... added to this list the alcoholic extracts of coconut, coffee or red fruits.
- Essential oils tailored to Top notes: citrus species or "citrus". Example: sweet orange, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit, lemon Litsea, lemongrass, palmarosa, neroli ...
You will have noticed that some essential oils are both tailored to the heart notes and top notes.
RECIPE OF WATER CUSTOM BATHROOM WITH ESSENTIAL OILS
In a pretty glass bottle of 100 ml (recycle a bottle with a spray nozzle), add successively using a funnel:
- 9 tablespoons vodka
- 1 tablespoon vegetable glycerin café (pharmacy, at the druggist or the Internet)
- 80 to 100 drops of essential oils to choose according to the procedure described above.
Close the bottle and shake the preparation. Let rest in refrigerator for 48 hours by shaking the vial several times a day to fully spread the aromas in alcohol.
The longer you let it sit, the more the fragrance is expressed. If after a few days the scent seems too strong, you can add a small amount of mineral water to the mixture and let rest again.
Use this aromatic bath water on the skin, hair or clothing. However Avoid spraying on light or delicate clothes.
Be very careful with essential oils. Test your perfume on a small area of the shoulder or arm before using it daily.
RECIPE SOLID PERFUME
For a pot of about 10 ml
Melt in a water bath:
- 1 teaspoon of shea butter
- 1 teaspoon of jojoba oil or sweet almond
- ½ teaspoon beeswax (some glitter)
Remove the melted mixture from heat. Add the following before solidification fragrances: 6 drops of essential oil of your choice for the base note (for example an exotic perfume: ylang-ylang), 6 drops of essential oil of your choice for the heart note (for example exotic scent: bourbon geranium), 6 drops of citrus essence or essential oil of your choice for the top note (for example an exotic fragrance: grapefruit).
Pour the still liquid mixture into a small glass jar or airtight plastic well and let stand in refrigerator 48 hours before use.
Note that this solid perfume in the form of very hard balm. It will therefore be rubbing your finger to warm it slightly before application to the skin in several keys on the basis of the neck, wrists or neck.
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